By: Andrew Arcangel | Last Updated: August 8, 2026
Ulam · Spicy & RegionalBicol Express
Thin-sliced pork belly simmered low and slow in coconut milk with a generous handful of chilies and a spoonful of shrimp paste. Creamy, fiery, and one of the few Filipino dishes that's genuinely, unapologetically spicy.
Bicol Express takes its name from the train line connecting Manila to the Bicol region, famous for its love of chilies and coconut milk. It's a dish that leans fully into heat, unlike most Filipino cooking which tends toward mild and savory — the shrimp paste adds a salty, funky backbone that coconut cream then smooths into something rich rather than harsh.
Balancing heat and cream
The trick to a good Bicol Express is layering the coconut milk in two stages: thinner coconut milk first to simmer the pork tender, then thicker coconut cream added near the end so it doesn't break or separate over long cooking. The chilies go in with the cream so they stay vibrant rather than turning mushy.
Ingredients
- 2 lbs pork belly, sliced thin
- 2 cups coconut milk
- 1 cup coconut cream
- 1/4 cup shrimp paste (bagoong alamang)
- 6-10 siling labuyo (bird's eye chili), chopped
- 3-4 long green chilies, sliced
- 1 onion, chopped
- 5 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 thumb ginger, sliced
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
Adjust the siling labuyo count to taste — start with fewer if you're not used to Filipino chili heat, which builds slowly.
Nutrition estimated per serving
- 520Calories
- 20gProtein
- 44gFat
- 8gCarbs
- 3gSugar
Estimated automatically from the ingredients above; actual values will vary based on brands and exact quantities used.
Instructions
- Sauté aromatics. Heat oil in a pot and sauté garlic, onion, and ginger until fragrant.
- Brown the pork. Add sliced pork belly and cook until lightly browned on the edges.
- Bloom the shrimp paste. Stir in shrimp paste and cook 1-2 minutes to release its aroma.
- Simmer in coconut milk. Pour in coconut milk, bring to a simmer, and cook uncovered until pork is tender and the liquid reduces, about 25-30 minutes.
- Add cream and chilies. Stir in coconut cream and both types of chilies, simmering until the sauce thickens and turns glossy, about 10 minutes.
- Adjust and serve. Taste and adjust spice or saltiness as needed. Serve hot with plenty of rice.
Tips & variations
- Milder version: use mostly long green chilies and just a couple of siling labuyo for warmth without overwhelming heat.
- Extra vegetables: string beans or eggplant are sometimes added for texture and to stretch the dish.
- Seafood twist: some coastal versions swap in shrimp or squid for pork.
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called Bicol Express?
It's named after the train route from Manila to the Bicol region, playfully referencing how spicy and fast-hitting the dish's heat is, similar to the express train.
Can I use canned coconut milk?
Yes, canned coconut milk and coconut cream both work well and are what most cooks use outside the Philippines — just shake the can well before opening.
How do I make it less spicy?
Reduce or omit the siling labuyo and rely mainly on the milder long green chilies for flavor without as much heat.
Send us a photo of your version and we may feature it on this page!
Contact us on our contact page or email us at: info@pancit.com