Thin-sliced pork belly simmered low and slow in coconut milk with a generous handful of chilies and a spoonful of shrimp paste. Creamy, fiery, and one of the few Filipino dishes that's genuinely, unapologetically spicy.
Bicol Express takes its name from the train line connecting Manila to the Bicol region, famous for its love of chilies and coconut milk. It's a dish that leans fully into heat, unlike most Filipino cooking which tends toward mild and savory — the shrimp paste adds a salty, funky backbone that coconut cream then smooths into something rich rather than harsh.
The trick to a good Bicol Express is layering the coconut milk in two stages: thinner coconut milk first to simmer the pork tender, then thicker coconut cream added near the end so it doesn't break or separate over long cooking. The chilies go in with the cream so they stay vibrant rather than turning mushy.
Adjust the siling labuyo count to taste — start with fewer if you're not used to Filipino chili heat, which builds slowly.
It's named after the train route from Manila to the Bicol region, playfully referencing how spicy and fast-hitting the dish's heat is, similar to the express train.
Yes, canned coconut milk and coconut cream both work well and are what most cooks use outside the Philippines — just shake the can well before opening.
Reduce or omit the siling labuyo and rely mainly on the milder long green chilies for flavor without as much heat.
